hm.. i got me a cyan/red nosebicycle but it does not work here. i guess it has to do with the colors. if i close the red eye its nearly filtering all out so i only see the cyan rendered side. but when i look thru the red eye only, i see both views. so looking thru both eyes gives me not the desired effect... are those values normed or did you just tweak them until they worked for you?

edit: or is it a problem with working on a notebook (screen problem)

Ello, How well does the glasses work with the pictures posted in this thread?

I finally got mine in. I tried the example, not bad, but I still think it needs more tweeking to properly align the images. The red/cyan shifts way too far apart at times.

First and foremost, here's where you can get free 3d glasses... just send a self addressed stamped envelope:

3D info and free glasses

Second, and also important, there are red/cyan and red/blue and other colors.

using red/blue with a red/cyan image may not work right, and the same with red/cyan glasses with a red/blue image. Make sure the right glasses are used.

I learned something new today, and when I read it, it makes sense and I hadnt thought about it much before. If anyone has ideas of a game/application to use 3D, there's a special consideration to keep in mind.

The red/cyan type of 3D effect best works with, say, movies that are black and white or have a very low color satuation. This is due to the blending of colors of various shades of red and blues that can mess up the 3D effect.

That's why they use the polarized lenses at theatres mostly and those big screen movie houses... so you can have 3D -AND- full color.

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Unfortunately, polarized images can't be reproduced on a computer screen because it's a 'physical' effect caused by a special screen using tiny 'reflectors' on the screen, directing each projectors image to one angle.

The red/cyan effect, obviously, can be reproduced, and it sure can be fun to play with. Just keep in mind the problem with using colors like red/cyan with colorful scenes.

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Personally, I like dark dungeon gothic type stuff, and with a low color saturated or a black and white scene, something fantasticly cool could be made with 3D.

But if you're looking for a full color game or scene, it will be difficult to make it great looking unless you can carefully control what colors are used in the scene.... and good luck not having any reds or blues in a 'full color' scene

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I know exactly '0' about shaders, and even less about post processing. I know we discussed 3D a couple years ago using2-3 cameras and frame switching etc etc, but I don't think anyone did anything with it. And i have no clue how much processing power is required to make such effects work (and i suspect not many do)

My opinion is also that if anyone works with trying to make a 3D effect, they should gear it to doing a real time application with it. Call me a visionary, or an idiot, but I think a 3D 'anything' would be a hit and if I can find an inspiring programmer, I'm definitely looking to make something in 3D.

I'm totally inspired !

- Jason

...I'm still trying different things to get past it. The biggest problem is keeping the red/cyan close; if they shift too far, it will just blur...

Right now I've got both views about 8 quants away from each other. both views pointing to a focal point (about 500 quants from the view). It's really not working that well...

I've been studying many Anaglyph images, and the one thing I'm trying to achive is: The focal point should be at the screen position. the red and blue channels should split away from each other as the distance grows further.

Example...

...Notice how the colors shift way as the distance increases.


I'll keep messing with it.

I'm looking at anaglyph pictures on the internet, and tho I'm not 100% certain, it does appear that closer objects get less shift, and further objects get more shift...

The other thing is that it doesnt seem to get wider and wider the further an object is. At some point, the big rock 100 meters away will have about the same shift as the tall building 1 kilometer away (remember, youre eyes are only about 2 inches/5 cm apart.

It's when an object is physically closer, and much closer that the 3D effect is at it's best.

I don't know how this post porocessing shader works, but in my un-expert opinion, I think there should be a falloff point, about 2 meters/6 feet where the shifting remains the same for all objects further away, or tapers off very slowly.



I mean, a lot of 3D movies deliberatly exaggerate the effect for the 'fun factor' because the objects that will make you duck away from the screen are really close to you anyway.


Check out this page... it's about how to take/make 3D anaglyph pictures and using a free program to make a 3D image.

Free Anaglyph Program/ tuorial

the best 3D effects are done with 2 cameras anyway... is this effect just imposing the same camera view and adding red/cyan versions? I'm not saying it wont work, and it may be th easiest way too.. just curious.


Ok guys, i'm doing all the homework... make a great 3D effect! lol

- Jason

The used matrices aren´t really normed and are based on trying by the authors from this page: http://www.3dtv.at/Knowhow/AnaglyphComparison_en.aspx
I also included the other matrizes from that page, just remove the commentmarkers in front of them and uncomment the currently used one. If you have really a lot of trouble to get anything working you should may try the matrices for real anaglyphs which should work without a problem as long as your display shows the colors right. When creating a 3D photograph you usually create the images from just a few centimeters shifted position without changing the angle. Though you can definatly improve the experience through playing around with the angle (I wanted this as easy as possible to use and got rid of it). When the pictures are combined and you look at them through some glasses, the layer without a offset will seem to be ad the screens position and then depending on which color is on which site, things will go into the display or come out of it.
The bigger the offset is, the deeper the scene will seem to be. But it will be hard to see 3D if the offset is bigger then the offset between your eyes (I often read 6cm for this). You should also play around with the views arc parameters.

When using color filters you will usually throw the red channel completely away.
The alternative which is often used is as BlueBeast already said are polarised glasses. But you won´t get it to work on a computer monitor easily. You have to use two beamers for this with different "filters" in front of their lense so the light will be different for both pictures. You also need a special projection surface which dosn´t manipulate the light (it has to mirror it very nicely) and then each glass in front of your eyes will let pass only the "fitting" light.

For computergames there are also shutter glasses which will always close one eye and change the image.

Some other nice practices for 3D is to learn crossview and parallelview (just search for it ) this will also make it a bit eaysier to look at anaglyphs with a quite big offset.

Since the cyan filter will often have also some red passing there can appear some ghosting, but you should usualy still see it in 3D if it isn´t too bad.

Just some experiences I made in the last weeks

Your color filtering was just fine. In fact, great find!

I'm simply tweaking the views...

I found the best result to be separating the views about 2 quants, and then slightly crossing over the views (at a very distant focal point). I'll try and get some screen shots up.



EDIT: I think I found a good setting:

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